(Continued from the previous text)
There were four of us exploring smoked beer, besides Mr. An, there were also Old Jia, Old Hou, and me.
I met Old Jia and Old Hou in the early 1990s when we worked together at a well-known Sino-foreign joint venture group in Beijing. I worked with them for a total of fourteen years, and both of their wives were also my colleagues at the same unit. Later, I changed jobs, but our friendship has remained to this day, and we are all very familiar with each other. Mr. Jia retired in July of the year I went to Germany, just like me, after managing hotels, shopping malls, and office buildings. As good friends, we have traveled together domestically and internationally for six or seven years; Mr. Hou has also been a hotel manager for over twenty years, and this time we are again in the same industry.
Both of them have considerable knowledge and experience with wine and food. Together with Mr. An, they are my drinking companions on this trip. Besides beer, we also brought seven bottles of whiskey with us.
I won't talk about our whiskey stories here; let's get back to the main topic.
That evening, just as it was getting dark, Mr. An led us out of the hotel, walking through the streets and alleys. When we crossed a stone bridge, we saw many young people standing on the bridge, holding beer bottles, drinking, and chatting. I thought we had arrived because where there are lively young people, there must be nightlife. Mr. An said, "Not yet; it's even livelier ahead." We continued on!
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After turning a couple of streets, twisting and turning, we saw a few bars ahead with about seventy or eighty people standing at the entrances, men and women in pairs, holding beer glasses, drinking, and chatting. We finally reached our destination.
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Mr. An pointed to a large oval sign on the wall at the entrance of a bar and said, "This is the one, established in 1405. Hurry up and take a picture with your phone; let's go in and drink!"
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In Bamberg, there are two breweries that produce smoked beer, and the most famous one is this bar, which has been in operation since 1405: Brauereigasthof Spezial.
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Since it was Mr. An's second visit, he guided us in with ease.
There is no bar counter, no liquor cabinet, and no other drinks; they only sell smoked beer in two varieties: one with a strong smoky flavor and one with a lighter taste. The beer is sold through a small window where you pay for it, and because the place is not large, most people drink their beer standing at the entrance or on the street outside.
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It felt like we had stepped into a European movie from the 17th or 18th century, traveling through a time tunnel.
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There was a line to buy beer, indicating that the business was booming!
What sets this place apart from others is that they charge a two-euro deposit for the beer glasses, and the deposit tag is a small plastic card.
After all four of us bought our beers and sat at a nearby old wooden table, I took a deep sip of this smoked beer, which is highly praised by beer enthusiasts, and indeed, it tasted different from any beer I had had before; it was quite good.
Mr. An had met an American beer enthusiast here the day before, who was on his eighth visit specifically to drink smoked beer.
It seems this place truly lives up to its reputation!
This bar has been in operation for 614 years since its establishment in 1405, and authentic German smoked beer at its birthplace costs only 3.8 euros a glass. The ancient bar retains its historical appearance and is still thriving in the 21st century.
Only by sitting here, in this place devoid of any modern atmosphere, with decorations still from before the 18th century, and drinking under the dim yellow light, can one truly appreciate the long history of the traditional brewing of smoked beer.
I had a similar experience with Mr. An and Mr. Jia in China three years ago: it was during a visit to the ancient Gu Yue Long Shan central winery in Shaoxing, Zhejiang, where we tasted 40-year-old raw yellow rice wine during a banquet, but it was not as profound as this time!
Chinese liquor has a long history, but who can say it has remained unchanged through wars and times? European history cannot be compared to the ancient history of the Chinese nation, but it is common to see buildings in Europe that have been in use for hundreds of years. Drinking smoked beer, I found my thoughts wandering...
I took the opportunity to smoke a cigarette and went to the bar entrance to watch the excitement.
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Across the street, there was a bar that opened in 1545, and it was also crowded. Business was good!
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At the height of the bar's activity, three middle-aged German men and one woman joined our table. They were drinking beer and watching us chat, and they greeted us in English.
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In our conversation, we learned that two of the German men were the same age as Mr. Jia and me, both turning sixty that year. One of them was particularly chatty; he had worked in Suzhou, China, and knew a few words of Chinese. The more we talked, the more we hit it off; he particularly liked and could even cook "Mao-style red-braised pork." I also used a translation app on my phone to chat with them in Chinese and German while drinking.
Their friends, seeing how lively we were, occasionally joined in. One German lady came over and said to me in Chinese, "I love you!" It really startled me; what was going on? Later, I learned she had been to China and had only learned this phrase.
They were all locals from Bamberg and loved this bar, being regulars here!
We had a great time chatting, continuously toasting and drinking, taking photos together, and even signing each other's coasters as a memento. We were worried that the Germans couldn't use WeChat to send the photos we took on our phones, but in the end, with gestures, English, and my translation app, we finally managed to get them to turn on Bluetooth on their phones.
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It was truly lively!
The bar was very old, and the restroom signs were interesting and unexpected. When I pushed the door open, the inside was very spacious and modern (no photos allowed inside).
Time flew by; before I knew it, we had been drinking and chatting for an hour and a half, and during that time, the four of us had each ordered another glass of the lighter smoked beer.
We prepared to wrap up and head back to the hotel to rest.
“I love hamburger, I love beer!” (This is my farewell phrase in broken English.)
This night of smoked beer in Bamberg, Germany, brought us great joy! It left a lasting impression on me!