Chapter Eleven: Suji Ancient Town

Although I am at the foot of Emei Mountain, I prefer to wander alone in the surrounding ancient towns, feeling the magic of time and space alternation. Perhaps it is because I drank half a bowl less of Meng Po soup in my previous life, I always feel that I do not belong to this era, but I do not know where my past self was. In my previous life, and the life before that, if I stretch the timeline, how many lifetimes have I lived? Standing by the small river in Suji Ancient Town between Emei and Leshan, a strong feeling swept over me again. I must have been here before!

The benefit of not making plans is that you can go whenever you want, without having to consider others' company or whether the weather is suitable. Occasionally checking the almanac before going out is just a whim. Whether to believe it or not is uncertain.

Before going, I only heard that Suji Ancient Town is the birthplace of "Qiaojiao Beef." Setting off in the afternoon is not a good time for tourism, but I heard that the ancient town is not big, so I thought it would be nice to go for dinner. Fortunately, there is an intercity bus that can reach between the two places, and the journey is quite convenient.

Walking through the long wooden corridor, I arrived at the pedestrian street of the ancient town, where various snack shops lined both sides of the street, reminding me that this is a food paradise, but the monotonous food made me feel a bit bored. The heavy commercialization has the advantage of boosting the local economy, but it has also caused the ancient town to lose its original flavor. Fortunately, before coming, a friend from Leshan recommended the famous Xu Liang Cake, which I definitely wanted to try.

After checking the information, I learned that Liang Cake is made from rice, resembling jelly or the northern cold noodles. Drizzled with a brown sugar sauce, it is very suitable for women to beautify their skin and quench their thirst. Indeed, most of the customers in the shop were women, seemingly confirming this point. However, the brown sugar they use is not boiled but made by crushing brown sugar blocks and mixing them with boiled water in a clay pot. The resulting brown sugar syrup is thick enough to be pulled into strands, resembling the sesame paste commonly found in the north. From the conversations of the customers, I heard that there are long queues in the shop during holidays, with many people coming for it. I ordered a traditional brown sugar Liang Cake, and the price of 3.5 yuan is really affordable. The waitresses in the shop are all elderly yet spirited grandmothers, seemingly confirming that this is a family-run shop passed down for generations.

After eating the Liang Cake, I walked by the river for a long time, and it was already dinner time. I initially planned to casually choose a riverside "Qiaojiao Beef" restaurant for dinner, but unexpectedly, I had a pleasant surprise.

The "Qiaojiao Beef" museum is located in a courtyard that looks like a residential house. As soon as you enter, you can see a life-sized bronze cow statue. The story of history slowly unfolds...

Was it a coincidence? Or fate? Not long after visiting the "Qiaojiao Beef" museum, I ran into a neighbor who lives in the same community. We had met a few times in the dining hall and happened to rent from the same second landlord, so there was a bit more familiarity. Thus, we agreed to go for dinner together.

The restaurant is built by the river, with an ancient charm. The advantage of having many people dining is that you can taste several signature dishes, and fortunately, our tastes were similar. Naturally, we ordered the famous "Qiaojiao Beef," and also a portion of "Spicy Crispy Intestines," while for the vegetarian dish, we chose "Lotus White." The northern cabbage is renamed Lotus White in the south, instantly making it feel more elegant. After briefly blanching in beef broth, the taste is sweet and crisp, perfect for pairing with meat dishes.

"Qiaojiao Beef" consists of beef slices and beef offal stewed together. Many of the spices used are traditional Chinese medicinal herbs, and it indeed has medicinal properties, making it a major selling point. After being scooped out of the meat broth, it is dipped in a dry chili powder, making it truly appetizing. My neighbor and I speculated that the shop must have an abundance of meat broth, as even the tea served while waiting for food is replaced with free beef broth here. The broth is rich yet light in flavor, and with a bit of cilantro and chopped green onions, it makes for a nice afternoon tea option.

It was strange; I specifically chose to go out on this day because I saw there was not much sun. Enjoying the gentle cool breeze in midsummer was quite pleasant, but unexpectedly, around seven o'clock, the sun became stronger, reflecting off the river and creating a shimmering effect. Watching the increasing number of pedestrians on the stone bridge not far away, the charm of the small town was self-evident.

It is said that this gently flowing river is called Emei River, a tributary of the Min River, which is a tributary of the Yangtze River, winding between Emei Mountain and the Leshan Giant Buddha. My neighbor joked that if we set off from Emei Mountain to Leshan next time, could we take a bamboo raft to get there and experience the grandeur of the Leshan Giant Buddha up close? I remembered sitting in a café at the street corner opposite the Leshan Giant Buddha a few days ago, daydreaming, and couldn't help but feel happy.

I like water; the boundless Yangtze River, the rushing Yellow River, even facing the sea makes me feel relaxed. That day, I sat by the Min River watching the rolling waters, and the feeling of healing became even stronger.

The riverside became more lively; it was the first time I saw such a simplified dragon dance, which seemed more like a leisure activity for the elderly. Watching the dancers skillfully maneuver the "dragon" up and down their arms, it felt like it was time for everyone to do square dancing. Indeed, the ease of small cities was once again highlighted. In the sunset, I felt increasingly calm and peaceful.

After that, my neighbor and I walked back and forth along the stone bridge several times, just to find more legendary snacks. Unknowingly, dusk had fallen. Perhaps the townspeople are used to going to bed early; even the bustling commercial street, the shops on both sides began to close one after another. I thought about whether to buy a few bags of local puffed rice candy, but neither of us liked sweets, so we gave up.

I was tired but didn't want to leave, so I sat for a while in a small bar by the river. Watching the figure fishing in front of me, I was quite curious about what they could catch? If one does not deliberately pursue results, then why come to feed the mosquitoes? Alright, I admit, I don't understand the joy of "fishing folks."

I like the ease here, but I won't stay long. I always feel that this comfort does not belong to me, or rather, it does not belong to the current age of myself. After a brief enjoyment, there is a longer anxiety. The taut string in my mind has never relaxed.

Am I happy? There should be some happiness at this moment.

It was still late when I returned to where I was staying. After taking a shower, I felt even more awake. So, I sat on the balcony with my wet hair, enjoying the breeze and drinking some wine. The inky night brought a strong sense of security, and the feeling of emptiness in my mind was truly wonderful. But soon, as the balcony door opened, I became tense again. Will I have nightmares if I sleep? If not, then I might as well work. I remember a saying: "The heart can break, but the hands cannot stop."

The End